Friday, June 30, 2006

Gastronomic Journey: Thinking Inside the Box

The first thing I notice is the buzzing of fluorescent lights and the parallel lines of black and chrome shopping carts, like hearses in a funeral home parking lot. I walk through the automatic doors into the slightly chilly, climate-controlled environment, and land directly in front of a display of out-of-season fruit. I take in row upon row of plaintively under-ripe nectarines, plums and peaches that surely were wrenched from trees in sunny places and confined to refrigerated trucks, and are now disheartened by the knowledge that they should be giving off alluring aromas they will never possess. I am here with my sister so we can get my mother a package of cream cheese for some pastry dough she is making to celebrate my sister’s visit. It is my first time in a chain grocery store in eight months. (read more)

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The Baker's Edge, HGTV and Us

When I met Matt Griffin, creator of the Baker's Edge brownie pan, I thought now here is a guy with some chutzpah. We've shared many frenzied e-mails with ideas for making a break-through in the world of food, and a wonderful friendship has ensued. It helps that his wife Emily is a killer baker, that their son is too adorable for words, and they have a very cool pan, but I still dig Matt the spirited inventor.

So does HGTV.com -- enough to feature the Baker's Edge in their "Gadgets" section with a link to purchase from the Gilded Fork boutique.

We're ecstatic to see Matt and Emily get the recognition they so richly deserve for the work they've put into creating the Baker's Edge, and we hope the culinary gods will help us to sell oodles of pans. Here's a toast to innovation!


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Thursday, June 29, 2006

Recipe: Garlic Brittle Cookies

A favorite of almost every American, chocolate chip cookies are the basis for many cookie adaptations. Among them are these delectable garlic brittle cookies. But garlic in a cookie? Garlic is a mysterious flavor, especially when paired with sugar, and its sweet bite is a perfect complement to chocolate. We bet no one will be able to guess the secret flavor in these cookies!

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Wednesday, June 28, 2006

A Remarkable Palate: Sparkling Wines Around the World

Sparkling wines are the perfect summer beverage. Here's an overview of the different varietals from around the globe:

No one can dispute the global dominance and reputation of true Champagne from France. The classic Méthode Champenoise accounts for some of the best wines in the world. There are also sparkling wines produced in other parts of the world using the French method, and American, Chilean, and Australian producers have been producing them for the past several decades.

While most call themselves sparkling wines, some unscrupulous (mostly American) producers actually call their wines Champagne.However, in other parts of Europe, home-grown sparkling wines are indeed produced, and they have their own unique characteristics. The Spanish have Cava, The Italians Prosecco and Spumante, and the Germans Sekt. Each has distinct methods for production, as well as grapes native to its respective country. (read more)

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Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Mise en Place: A Midsummer Night's Dinner Party

With the Midsummer heat comes a natural desire to eat refreshing flavors, and in keeping with that need we've highlighted the tastes of citrus, mint and lemongrass in this month's menu, with wines that are light in both color and body to match our dishes. This is the perfect menu for a gathering with friends on the patio, or inside where the air conditioner is a haven for respite from the heat.

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Monday, June 26, 2006

From Our Readers: Making Peace with Polenta

Going to my aunt and uncle’s lake house meant a lot to me as a child. It meant that summer was finally at an end, school would be starting in a matter of hours, and I would be facing a dish of polenta before the sun went down.

My aunt and uncle are Italian-American, and not actually relatives. It made perfect sense to call them so, since there was usually nothing to make me feel like anything but family; if it weren’t for the polenta, I might have attained full-blood status.

How well I remember my first taste. (read more)

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Sunday, June 25, 2006

Recipe: Summer Tomato Salad with Creamy Garlic Vinaigrette

For this recipe, we used red vine-ripe globes (Beefsteak), heirloom (Brandywine), tomatillos, and yellow tomatoes. See our Test Kitchen Notes for more information about choosing varieties for your recipes.

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Food Philosophy #12: Cooking from A to Z™

Food Philosophy #12: Cooking from A to Z™

What do you get when you mix identical twins with distinctly different personalities, a hot Summer day, a kitchen -- and me? If things go well, you get popsicles. Meet the sous chefs, Alex and Zachary, who have been at my side in the kitchen since my Gilded Fork adventure began, and the young gentlemen who have shown me that cooking with kids can be a rewarding -- and hilarious -- experience.

Theme Music: "New York Cheesecake" by Adam Buker and "Grapes" by Evan Stone

The Food Philosophy podcast is a production of The Gilded Fork.


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Friday, June 23, 2006

Behind the Toque: Chef Thomas Keller

I had an opportunity to speak with Chef Thomas Keller about his food philosophy a few weeks ago as he was en route from the east to west coasts. This is an edited excerpt from my interview which appeared on the Food Philosophy podcast, where it can be heard in its entirety. Enjoy! (read more)


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Wednesday, June 21, 2006

Introducing the Gilded Fork Online Boutique!

We told you it was coming, and now you can see the Gilded Fork Online Boutique for yourself. We've got everything to tempt your palate, from fine caviar to luxury tabletop to a little bit o' Baker's Edge.

We've included more than fifty hard to find items that will keep your pantry filled with the little touches that turn a meal into a feast, and your dining room accented with the finest of decor from our Gilded Fork at Home™ collection. So get to shopping!

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Recipe: Olive Oil Brownies with Toasted Walnuts

Nothing is more irresistible than the combination of a chewy interior and the crispy sweet crust of a freshly baked brownie. While chocolate is typically the most important ingredient in a brownie, we successfully experimented to create a recipe that would highlight the intensity and flavor of olive oil while still retaining all of the classic properties we love. In the first few attempts at baking these fudgy treats, we noticed a nutty aroma wafting from the oven, so the addition of toasted walnuts is naturally perfect. Of course you’ll want to devour all of these delectable morsels at once, but try your hardest to be patient, because the flavor develops and intensifies even more after a few days.

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Monday, June 19, 2006

Cookbook Review: The Stinking Rose Cookbook

San Francisco and Beverly Hills are both hosts to the Stinking Rose Restaurant, and between the two locations, over 3,000 pounds of garlic are consumed each month. The San Francisco Stinking Rose opened in 1991 and became an instant hit on Columbus Avenue; its flamboyant interior brought attention from tourists with someone remarking “The most popular restaurant in L.A. is the Stinking Rose in San Francisco!” In 1995, a second location was opened in Beverly Hills. Today, both restaurants serve garlic-themed dishes with boisterous fun and flair.

Chef Andrea Froncillo, assisted by Jennifer Jeffrey, has gleaned sixty-five of the restaurant’s favorite recipes in his new cookbook, The Stinking Rose Restaurant Cookbook. This exuberant collection puts garlic into just about everything, from first-course beverage The Stinking Bloody Mary to a recipe of roasted garlic and vanilla bean infused Garlic Ice Cream. (read more)

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Sunday, June 18, 2006

Food Philosophy #11: Mario Rinaldi of Champagne Paul Goerg

Food Philosophy #11: Mario Rinaldi of Champagne Paul Goerg

Mark and I had the wonderful opportunity to savor a tasting dinner at Restaurant Bruno Jamais in NYC last week featuring the Champagnes of Paul Goerg. Join us as we speak with Mario Rinaldi, Goerg's eloquent ambassador, about the philosophy behind this very special house of bubbly. It is quickly becoming one of my favorites, and we discovered it thanks to our dear friend Jean-Louis Gerin.

www.champagne-goerg.com

Theme Music: "New York Cheesecake" by Adam Buker and "Grapes" by Evan Stone

The Food Philosophy podcast is a production of The Gilded Fork.


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Saturday, June 17, 2006

The Indulgence: Olive Oil - The Golden Elixir

Oh, sweet indulgence that is olive oil. Valued since the beginning of civilization for its golden-green hue, pungent taste and supple texture, we continue to celebrate its uniqueness in modern cuisine, and its popularity ever increases. You’ll not hear us complain about this. Its versatility as either a core component of cooking or a decadent liquid for dipping and drizzling makes it one of our all-time pantry favorites. (read more)

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Recipe: Salmorejo


This soup recipe is a classic of Andalusian cookery, and originated in the historic town of Cordoba, home of the Mezquita, a gem of Moorish architecture. Salmorejo is often served room temperature or even cold as a perfect antidote to the long, hot summer evenings of Andalusia. The bold flavors of this soup are perfect for Dad on Father’s Day.

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Tuesday, June 13, 2006

Test Kitchen Notes: Garlic Scapes

We've heard of landscapes, and soundscapes, but what in the heck are garlic scapes?

Also known as garlic shoots and garlic snakes, the garlic scape is the seed head from the hard-necked variety of garlic, which appears when the clove begins to sprout and grow and shows you where the bulb will sprout.

Garlic scapes are great in a quick sautéed stir fry, because when raw, they have the sharp flavor of garlic, but when sautéed, they have a milder finish than you might expect. An ideal Spring addition to any dish that would use leeks, chives, or other green aromatics, they are also great in spring rolls.

Garlic scapes, unlike garlic bulbs, are very seasonal and have a short window of availability. As you can imagine, since they are the shoots of the hard-necked garlic, they appear during May and early June, and can usually only be found at farm stands. Though hard to find in the past (when farmers would typically compost them), the recent surge in popularity among consumers has led to their appearance at greenmarkets and some specialty markets. It's unlikely that you'll find garlic scapes at your local large chain supermarket, but if you do, snatch them up and play with them!

gilded fork, test kitchen, food, cooking, garlic, garlic scapes

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Monday, June 12, 2006

Recipe: Savory Garlic Ice Cream

We REALLY love ice cream. So much so, in fact, that we’ve been known to even sneak it into a meal. But savory ice cream? Strange as it may seem, garlic ice cream is very similar to a garlic custard in taste, but boasts the cool smoothness and creaminess we love in an ice cream. It’s like a savory crème anglaise in frozen form. The touch of honey helps to develop the natural sweetness of the garlic and balance the savory quality. Try one bite of this cool sensation with luscious mashed potatoes, steamed green beans or the crispy crust of a grilled steak – we guarantee it will send your tastebuds soaring and swooning for more!

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Saturday, June 10, 2006

At the Stove: Lemongrass - Perfumed Allure

Lemongrass. The word itself describes its almost indescribable cachet. At once lemony — but without the tart or the tang; grassy — but without the pungent earthiness that adds a note of complexity to the other grassy herbs. It is what it is; a mouth aroma more than a flavor, in my estimation. It is delicate. Ethereal. When put through the rigors of most cooking processes, its flavor becomes fleeting and elusive. It is the very definition of “indulgence” around the Gilded Fork test kitchen. And, like most indulgences we work through here, we’ve run the gamut coaxing and pushing the flavor of lemongrass in a way that allows its presence to be gently known, without commanding attention over the entire dish.

Those who are familiar with lemongrass as an herb will naturally default in their thinking to Thai and Vietnamese cuisine — perhaps even Caribbean cuisine, as its primary expression. And though a regular feature in Asian-styled dishes, it is also known to be a centerpiece in the repertoires of tea houses and herbalists. But what makes lemongrass compelling as an herb is its aromatic oil content. (read more)

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Thursday, June 08, 2006

Recipe: Garlic Smashed Potatoes with Balsamic Reduction


Potatoes are a nice blank canvas for many aromatic tastes. Roasted garlic, with its nutty smooth flavor and homey richness, is the perfect flavoring for simply smashed potatoes. The balsamic reduction complements the ensemble, and can be used in many other recipes, which we like. Be sure to choose a waxy variety of potato so as to avoid any unnecessary starchiness.

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Wednesday, June 07, 2006

Cookbook Review: Italian Salads by Maxine Clark

Salads may not normally serve as appetizers in Italy, but the lavish photographs and simple recipes in Italian Salads will whet your appetite for the freshest of flavors from Florence, Rome and Palermo.

Inspired by journeys through Italy, food writer and cooking instructor Maxine Clark has assembled an appetizing collection of thirty favorite salads. “On my travels I have come across many types of salads, from light and delicate mixtures of spring leaves to hot salads made with potato mixed with salame in a warm dressing,” she writes. “There is something for everyone.” Indeed, her book offers exactly that. (read more)

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Tuesday, June 06, 2006

Recipe: Garlic Spiced Butter

This compound butter is simple, yet incredibly versatile. It can be frozen and pulled out for a fast, impressive dinner accoutrement. Used under the skin to baste roasted poultry, tossed with roasted vegetables, mixed into mashed potatoes, or just spread on dinner rolls, the flavor is subtle but compelling. We love it on grilled fish, because the taste of roasted garlic brings us back to summer nights along the Mediterranean coast.

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Monday, June 05, 2006

Food Philosophy #10: What's Your Food Philosophy?

Food Philosophy #10: What's Your Food Philosophy?

Surely you didn't think that question was going to go away; you've heard from the chefs, now hear from the amateurs. Two of my closest friends share their thoughts on the evolution of their own experimentation in the kitchen, and one unveils the monster I seem to have created. I really didn't mean to, but it was the truffle cheese, you see.

P.S. We've told you ours -- now it's your turn.


Music: "New York Cheesecake" by Adam Buker and "Grapes" by Evan Stone

The Food Philosophy podcast is a production of The Gilded Fork.


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The Main Ingredient: Garlic, The "Stinking Rose"

Garlic is believed to have spread throughout Asia in the hands of nomadic tribes arriving in the Middle East over 4,000 years ago. Since man began using it, garlic has always been considered both a food and a source of health. It has almost always been considered to have protective powers, as people used it to ward off sickness and evil (most famously in the form of vampires) throughout the ages. By 1500 B.C. the Egyptians recognized garlic as a remedy for over 20 sicknesses, including headaches, worms and heart ailments. The Egyptians also believed in the strengthening powers of garlic, and fed it to their slaves to keep their stamina levels high while building the great pyramids. (read more)

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Sunday, June 04, 2006

Recipe: Roasted Garlic and Red Pepper Hummus

Tantalize your taste buds with this richly spiced hummus spread. Roasting large amounts of garlic helps to impart a sweet smooth flavor (and it keeps well for other uses, make extra so you can always have some on hand). A perfect complement for any summer party or to take along to your favorite picnic spot!

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Saturday, June 03, 2006

Messages in a Bottle: The Better Half of My Palate

I heard my wife say something unbelievable last week. It just sort of popped out, casually, as we were putting the final touches on a simple Tuesday night pasta dinner.

"Honey, I'm worried that we're not buying enough good red wine to lay down for the long term."

I nearly dropped my plate. This was the wine lover's equivalent to any number of preposterous fantasies: the sports fan whose wife requests a much bigger TV and matching tattoos of his favorite team; the meat lover's vegan girlfriend who suddenly offers to make prime rib at home; or the oversexed Woody Allen type whose wife suggests they start swinging with supermodels.I'm the luckiest man alive. (read more)

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Friday, June 02, 2006

Recipe: Aioli Garni (Garlic Mayonnaise with Accompaniments)

This is a classic Provençale preparation, which we could not ignore in a month celebrating the “Stinking Rose.” The name comes from its two main ingredients, “ail” meaning garlic and “oli” meaning olive oil in the langue d’oc, the ancient dialect of Southern France . Eating too much of the spicy garlic mayonnaise can be unsettling, so it is usually paired with lighter accompaniments, such as vegetable crudités or lightly boiled fish or meat. A Provençale rosé would be the libation of choice.

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Thursday, June 01, 2006

Monthly Meditation: Revisiting the Classics

In crafting a vision for the Gilded Fork, we decided that not only would it be a place where avid cooks could come to celebrate the sensual pleasures of food and wine, but it would also be a haven for new cooks eager to learn. The underlying theme in all of that is a dedication to highlighting cuisine at its roots, where fundamentals share equal importance with more complex ingredients and methods. As a result, we decided to dedicate this month of June to a couple of kitchen classics: garlic and olive oil. For me, these two ingredients have been a critical part of cooking for as long as I can remember, and they are omnipresent in my kitchen; both have such versatility that it’s hard to fathom cooking without them. (read more)

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