Thursday, September 28, 2006

Recipe: Mascarpone Cheesecake with Honeyed Pistachios

Rich and creamy, yet also light and delicate, every bite of this luscious dessert is tantalizing. The familiar combination of milk and honey with the added crunch of toasty pistachios makes this cheesecake an irresistible treat. Nothing delights us more than an exquisite finale that brings comfort to a chilly evening.


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Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Test Kitchen Notes: Fig Seduction

This week's sweet little test kitchen note comes from (who else) our Pastry Princess, Monica Glass:

With skin so supple, so delicate, and a luscious pulp within boasting an intense ruby red interior, there is something sensuous and almost exotic about soft, sweet fresh figs. There is no denying the lure of a long, sweet kiss of this forbidden fruit; one bite of the voluptuous flesh reveals an almost jammy interior laden with intense notes of honey, caramel and butterscotch.

It’s a shame that so many people know the fig only as the icky dried fruit or the filling of that famous Newton cookie. Astoundingly, most people know very little about fresh figs, and even fewer have ever kissed the flesh or reveled in its deliciously sweet juices.

Induced by its plump body, juicy ripeness and intoxicating taste, once I start, I cannot stop – I am in fig heaven. And the fig is my sweet indulgence.

Most delicious when eaten whole and pure, figs need little adornment, and I adhere to a strict rule not to mix them with too many ingredients. Figs are also one of the most versatile fruits in the kitchen, amenable to both sweet and savory treatments, and undeniably compelling when complimented by other ingredients; they combine well with sweet, salty and savory foods. But if they are to be tampered with, to me, figs are most glorious in a simple, buttery caramel. With that indulgent introduction, I give you my caramel figs... (read more)


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Tuesday, September 26, 2006

ReMARKable Palate #58: Ming Tsai (Part II)

ReMARKable Palate #58: Chef Ming Tsai, Part 2

Jennifer and I sat down with Chef Ming Tsai of Blue Ginger Restaurant and his PBS show Simply Ming. He tells us about running a restaurant with his wife, his work with Chefs for Humanity and FAAN, the Food Allergy and Anaphlaxis Network, and tells us about his new line of East-West products available at Target. Look for more of his Simply Ming Podcasts coming up in October on the Culinary Podcast Network.

You can hear part 1 of the interview on Food Philosophy #22

www.ming.com

Theme Music: "Can't Hold it Down", by Andy Sullivan. www.andysullivan.com

Voice Mail line: 1-646-797-3196
skype: remarkablepalate

The ReMARKable Palate Podcast, a production of The Gilded Fork. www.gildedfork.com
www.culinarypodcastnetwork.com
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Monday, September 25, 2006

Recipe: Silky Blue Cheese Soup

This rich and silky soup highlights the sharp flavor of a nicely veined blue cheese. It starts with a velouté made with roux and chicken stock, a foundational technique useful for many classic sauces. Here we add beer and cheese to the velouté to make a surprisingly satisfying and silky soup for an early fall evening.

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Sunday, September 24, 2006

The Indulgence: The Cheese Course

Rather than highlight one specific cheese for this month’s Indulgence, we decided to focus on the cheese board or course as an integral part of the meal. We are huge fans of the added elegance a selection of cheeses brings to both casual and formal dining; in fact, there are times when dinner for us is just that, along with some accompaniments and a nice bottle of wine.

Of course, since we are such enthusiasts of artisanal cheeses, the cheese course presents an opportunity for us to explore our discoveries with friends, as well as find new combinations for the palate. Cheese can be served either on a cheese board or as its own course as follows:

Cheese board
When served as part of a buffet or family-style meal, the cheese board offers a selection of tastes to complement or enhance the other dishes being served. The board is passed along with other dishes and can be left in the center of the table for continued sampling. It’s also an elegant and easy to prepare part of an hors d’oeuvre party.

Cheese course
When served as a separate course, a selection of cheeses provides a brief repose in the meal for guests to indulge their palates, and can even can take the place of dessert for those who prefer a savory finish. Presenting a selection of varied cheeses gives guests a chance to experience a progression of flavors in one course. As an example: Brillat-Savarin, Campo Montalban with membrillo, Speziato al tartufo and Stilton. (read more)


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Food Philosophy #22: Chef Ming Tsai

Food Philosophy #22: Chef Ming Tsai

Mark and I had a chance to sit down with Ming Tsai for a wonderfully candid chat about his East/West food philosophy, as well as some of his non-food philosophy about the art of living well. Surprisingly, we discovered he's not a fan of the word "fusion," and that to him, the world's perfect food is the ice cream sundae.

Theme Music: Super Hot Lady Cop by Beau Hall (www.beaurocks.com) and Grapes by Evan Stone (www.asamandrummeth.com).

The Food Philosophy podcast is a production of The Gilded Fork (www.gildedfork.com).


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Thursday, September 21, 2006

Recipe: Gorgonzola-Stuffed Steak with Prosciutto

Rich and flavorful gorgonzola cheese blended with finely minced herbs and nuts oozes out of pockets cut into thick, meaty sirloin steaks. The outer wrapping of prosciutto or pancetta adds a decadent layer of additional flavor. Although we prefer this pocket technique, you can easily place this filling on top of your steak just after cooking as a decadent topping.


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Wednesday, September 20, 2006

ReMARKable Palate #57: Pairing Beer and Cheese

ReMARKable Palate #57: Pairing Beer and Cheese

Chef Mark speaks with Florian Kuplent, a Brewmaster at Anheuser Busch in St. Louis. He explains the process of making beer, including the distinction between lagers and ales, light and dark, filtered and unfiltered beers, and we taste some barley and smell some hops. Florian then leads us through a tasting which pairs 5 beers with a variety of cheeses.

Theme Music: "Can't Hold it Down", by Andy Sullivan. www.andysullivan.com

Voice Mail line: 1-646-797-3196
skype: remarkablepalate

The ReMARKable Palate Podcast, a production of The Gilded Fork. www.gildedfork.com

www.culinarypodcastnetwork.com
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Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Gastronomic Meditations: Learning to Speak Italian

There is a popular aphorism in Italy, “Si parla come si mangia,” which literally means one eats like one talks. However, because Italians consider simple speech a rhetorical ideal (though not necessarily a reality as testified by the varied, colorful nature of Italian swear words) the saying actually means that one should cook simply, as one would preferably talk. Thus Italy’s culinary artistry relies less on complicated mixtures, spices and techniques, and more on the purity and quality of each ingredient.

Given that ingredients tend to be rather simple in Italian cooking, the basic ones are held to a higher standard of quality and an elevated level of flavor. For example, Italian olive oil is considered an art form, and is tested and tasted just like wine. With its higher level of complexity, the oil is better able to stand by itself in bases for sauces and dressings. In order to arbitrate whether the oil is insipido, or without taste (which is usually due to the sourcing of flavorless or processed olives), one must drink a small portion and “taste” it. I actually did, and it was as disgusting as one could imagine, but I learned that if the oil burns the back of your throat when you swallow it (after gargling for a few seconds), it means it is of very high quality (in Italian this burning sensation is called pizzicante). (read more)


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Monday, September 18, 2006

Mixology: Garden Temptations

This cocktail is an epicurean experience designed with figs in mind, inspired by their mention in the Garden of Eden. This gentle libation comprises notes of elderberry that seduce the palate while the other flavors blend deceptively behind into a delicious orange hue; the Earl Grey tea and carrot complete the “garden flavor.”


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Food Philosophy #21: Beer and Food Pairing

Food Philosophy #21: Beer and Food Pairing

Who knew that beer could be such a lovely complement to a multi-course meal? Well, now *I* do, but it took some convincing -- and tasting. In Part I of our double-whammy of beer (Part II will be on the next ReMARKable Palate), Mark talks with Jill Vaughn, Brew Master of Anheuser-Busch, about the various flavor profiles of beer and how each type is best matched with food. This little primer is followed by my comments on the tasting dinner we attended at Craft in New York, where Jill's craft brews were paired with a fall menu from Chef Damon Wise to offer unique ideas for holiday entertaining.

Share your Sweet Indulgences at A Life Much Sweeter!

Theme Music: Super Hot Lady Cop by Beau Hall

The Food Philosophy podcast is a production of The Gilded Fork.

Podshow PDN {podshow-85000d1c5f8059dd56367a0713c0420f}


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Saturday, September 16, 2006

Chef's Table: Understanding Balsamico

The past twenty years have seen an enormous surge in the popularity of Balsamic vinegar here in the United States. This mysteriously dark and intoxicating, complex elixir tempts us as a condiment, a base for sauces, vinaigrettes and marinades, and as a flavor enhancer for meats, cheeses and even fruits. Restaurants and supermarket shelves are now crowded with many different dark caramel liquids claiming to be balsamico, and some are even quite good; but with all of the choices available today, how can you distinguish among the different kinds of balsamic vinegar?


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Friday, September 15, 2006

Recipe: Pan de Higo (Spanish Fig Cake)

Pan de higo is a traditional way to preserve figs for the cold winter months. The artisanal fig cake is a specialty of Jaen in Andalusia, and as it contains no flour, the cake will last a long time. This is such a traditional and amazing recipe we haven’t given it our usual Gilded Fork twist – we’re just presenting it in its delicious simplicity. Pan de higo travels well, and is perfect for a Spanish-themed picnic; pack along with chorizo, manchego or garrotxa cheese, some crusty bread, and a bottle of Spanish wine.


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Thursday, September 14, 2006

A Remarkable Palate: A Sensual Flamenco Alegria

In considering this month’s Main Ingredient, pears, and the Indulgence, cheese, I couldn’t help but think of the interplay between these two. The sweet, crisp, clean flavor of pear and the creamy richness of cheese go well together, whether they are presented in simple slices as a picnic snack or in something more elegant, such as a pear and gorgonzola tartlet with hazelnuts.

However, my playful nature led me to have some fun with these two. I couldn’t help but think to reverse the roles for cheese and pears, and make the pears the indulgence with cheese serving as a base for the dulcimer subtlety of the pear. My mind started to wander to past experiences enjoying sweet fruits and cheeses, and, as always, this led me on a journey through world cuisines, with enticing connections along the way.


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Wednesday, September 13, 2006

Recipe: Fig Tartlettes with Vanilla Crème Patissière

This tart has several steps, but is very easy to make. The basic pie crust recipe can be used for many filled tarts and pies, so it’s a useful base recipe to learn. The combination of aromatic vanilla and sweet fig is alluring without being overpowering, and we couldn’t resist gilding the lily by drizzling sweet honey over the top!

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ReMARKable Palate #56: Kate Zuckerman on the Sweet Life

ReMARKable Palate #56: Kate Zuckerman on The Sweet Life

Chef Mark speaks with Kate Zuckerman, the award winning pastry chef at Chanterelle in TriBeCa about her upcoming cookbook "The Sweet Life: Desserts from Chanterelle". She tells us about her inspirations, her seasonal approach, and how she balances career and raising a family, and we talk about our personal connection through her husband, who conducted me in musicals at Yale!

See her Pastry Chat blog at www.katezuckerman.com

Plus, we conclude our Sweet Indulgences series by hearing from some more folks about their favorite guilt-free indulgences. Share yours or read about more at www.alifemuchsweeter.com

Theme Music: "Can't Hold it Down", by Andy Sullivan. www.andysullivan.com

Voice Mail line: 1-646-797-3196
skype: remarkablepalate

The ReMARKable Palate Podcast, a production of The Gilded Fork. www.gildedfork.com

www.culinarypodcastnetwork.com
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Jennifer in BusinessWeek


If any of you subscribe to BusinessWeek, Jennifer is in the September 18th issue in the Fall 2006 Small Biz section. The article is entitled Hitting the Books, and questions if an MBA is needed to be successful as an entrepreneur.

From the article (following a section about the courses to choose for your MBA program):

And what if, after plenty of research, nothing seems to fit? Well, academic studies in entrepreneurship aren't for everyone. Last year, Jennifer Iannolo thought she'd go back to school for an MBA in entrepreneurship and use that time to develop her next company. But she was rejected by Oxford University -- a great stroke of luck, she now says. The 34-year-old has her rejection letter framed in her office. The day after it arrived, she dove into work for the Gilded Fork, her new online media startup. She's hardly pining for more time on campus. Mostly, she says, she's using "what I learned by being in the trenches."

Jennifer thinks that 12 years in the business trenches are far more valuable than an MBA, so she's encouraged that they decided to include an opposing perspective. And, since BusinessWeek is the world's largest business publication, we're all rather delighted on a number of levels. :)

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Tuesday, September 12, 2006

The Main Ingredient: A Feast of Figs

Figs have an appeal that is both sensual and earthy. A seemingly simple and even ugly exterior masks a lusciously seductive interior which invites us to consume it with abandon. In fact, figs are said to be the true forbidden fruit of the Garden of Eden, which does not surprise us in the least. A member of the mulberry family, the fig is a pear-shaped fruit that can range in color from deep purple to brown to green, and it has a fleshy interior filled with tiny edible seeds that are covered by a somewhat tough outer skin. Figs are extraordinarily packed with minerals: they are rich in potassium, calcium and iron, and also offer high quantities of fiber.

Figs have been recorded in history as early as 2700 B.C., and have been a staple food of both the rich and poor. Their presence can be seen throughout the ancient world, from the Egyptians to the Greeks, and they were valued not only as a symbol of fertility, but as a nourishing, restorative fruit. Figs have even been discovered in the tombs of great leaders, where they were offered as fuel for the trip to the believed after-life, and an ancient Greek ruler made it illegal to export figs out of Greece because he wanted to reserve them for his citizens. Winners in the earliest Olympics were given figs to eat as a reward for their athletic prowess. When Cleopatra decided it was time to escape this mortal coil, she had the asp that ended her life brought to her in a basket of figs, rumored to be her favorite fruit. (read more)


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Monday, September 11, 2006

Recipe: Caramelized Fig Spread

Fresh figs are already sweet and delicious on their own. However, we prefer to roast them under the broiler with a light coating of sugar to enhance their richness and make them easier to blend with other luscious ingredients. This fig spread can be served with an assortment of crackers and toast points as well as over slices of roasted pork or a succulent grilled steak.


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Food Philosophy #20: Comfort Food

Food Philosophy #20: Comfort Food

In the days following September 11, 2001, I learned more about the power of food to comfort than I thought possible. As a volunteer at the James Beard House following the attacks, I witnessed the nurturing balm that a hot meal could provide for many a weary spirit.

Sweet Indulgence: Apple Cinnamon Glaze
Share your indulgence at A Life Much Sweeter.

Theme Music: Super Hot Lady Cop by Beau Hall, Grapes by Evan Stone

The Food Philosophy podcast is a production of The Gilded Fork.


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Friday, September 08, 2006

Recipe: Hazelnut and Fig Linzer Cookies

Lovely linzers! Two delicately crisp and slightly sweet hazelnut cookies sandwiched together with a generous filling of fragrant ruby red fig jam will leave your taste buds dancing for more. Traditionally made with ground almonds and raspberry jam, we love this variation of buttery hazelnuts and luxurious figs, inspired by an abundance of our Pastry Princess’s favorite fruit. Full of plump, sweet fruit, the jam is also incredibly delicious alone or served on toast or with a variety of cheeses.


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Messages in a Bottle: Appreciating Wine in Context

What did you think the first time you heard Mozart? Perhaps like me, you had a mother who would play classical music throughout the house on Sunday mornings –- and smile knowingly when you squirmed your way off the couch rather than sit for another minute listening to that stuff. To your eight-year-old ears, it was boring, complicated and inaccessible: You lacked the context in which to appreciate it.

Perhaps as you grew up, though, you started to appreciate Mozart, if not enjoy it; perhaps because you learned more about how to listen to his music. You gained an understanding of its context.

Most wine drinkers, no matter their level of knowledge and sophistication, are on a similar path of evolving understanding. Each mouthful whose flavors and aromas we drink, each bottle label we unconsciously imprint in our memory, each line-item on a wine list that we select for the evening’s meal is another volume in our own library of experience, and determines how we will experience the next. The more wine we drink and the more we learn, the better context we have to evaluate (or enjoy) every future glass. (read more)

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Thursday, September 07, 2006

ReMARKable Palate #55: The Food and Wine of Cyprus

ReMARKable Palate #55: The Cheese and Wine of Cyprus

Tim Mavrelus, the "Halloumi Man" speaks to us about the food products of Cyprus. Halloumi cheese is known worldwide as "the cheese that grills", and Tim describes the process of making Halloumi. He and Aristos Constantine introduce me to Commandaria, an amber colored fortified wine made from the Mavro grape. It gained fame in Europe when Richard the Lionhearted drank it at his wedding in Cyprus, pronouncing it "The wine of kings and the king of wines". We also taste Zivania, a high alcohol spirit distilled from grape must.

We also share some more Sweet Indulgences. Share yours at A Life Much Sweeter.

Voice Mail line: 1-646-797-3196
skype: remarkablepalate

The ReMARKable Palate Podcast. A production of The Gilded Fork. www.gildedfork.com


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Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Recipe: Dried Fig and Hazelnut Bread

This wonderful fall recipe was crafted by cookbook author Susan Herrmann Loomis, who is well known for teaching cooking classes in her home in Normandy…“On Rue Tatin.” Its dense texture is perfect for serving with an aperitif before your guests sit down for dinner.


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Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Monthly Meditation: Fig of My Heart

Can you feel that? It’s the first hint of a refreshing fall breeze, awakening our senses to kick into overdrive as we happily return to the kitchen. I become giddy when that air hits me, as I suddenly feel alive again after months of humidity and stale air conditioning. Most importantly (thank heaven, earth and the Lucky Charms elf), it is back-to-school time, so the neighborhood has returned to its sublime state of quiet. It’s almost enough to make me put away the slingshot, though the birds are getting a bit chatty.

Our thoughts this month have turned to figs in their autumnal splendor, and there is little wonder that Adam and Eve chose the leaves of such a beloved fruit to cover their delicate parts. The seductive fig is the taste of Eden itself, if you ask me.

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Monday, September 04, 2006

Mise en Place: Early Autumn Dinner Party

The first cool autumn breezes are upon us, so it's time to turn our thoughts toward indoor dinners and comforting dishes. With touches of tomatoes, figs, cheese and roasted poultry, this month's menu is a chance to get our senses ready for the fall nights to come. We're also delighted to announce that Lenn Thompson is now officially the wine pairing guru for our Mise en Place section, so you can look forward to his pairing notes and tips each month.


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Food Philosophy #19: Goodbye Summer!

Food Philosophy #19: Goodbye Summer!

As we revel in our last moments of summer relaxation, let's take a peek at what's coming this fall in the Hudson Valley, including the Epicurean Road Rally and the Hudson Valley Wine Fest. We'll also stroll down Taste Memory Lane with a look at fathers and figs.

Share your Sweet Indulgences at A Life Much Sweeter!

Theme Music: Super Hot Lady Cop by Beau Hall and New York Cheesecake by Adam Buker. www.adambuker.com.

The Food Philosophy podcast is a production of The Gilded Fork.


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Friday, September 01, 2006

Recipe: Provocachic™ Lychee Martini

With an illustrious recorded history going as far back as 1059 A.D. in China, the lychee fruit is symbolic of both royalty and love. Legend speaks of the imperial Lady Yang Kuei Fei who had a passion for fresh lychees; the Emperor Hsuan Tsung had guards mounted on fast horses traveling 600 miles south of the palace to bring back the fresh lychees to woo her. Today, used to create the lychee martini, perhaps the lychee can help you do to some wooing of your own.


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Test Kitchen Notes: Labor Day Feasting

As we say goodbye to summer playtime (and oppressive heat in some places), it's time to gather our barbecue tools and ice coolers for one last celebration.
Here are some barbecue ideas that don't require too much effort (we are celebrating Labor Day here in the U.S., after all), so there is no excuse to serve the same old fare. Unless you make a mean hamburger, in which case we'll be over for dinner.

Salads:

Festive Fennel Salad

Grilled Romaine with Creamy Lemongrass Dressing

Summer Tomato Salad with Creamy Garlic Vinaigrette

Melon Ball Salad with Spiced Ginger Syrup


Appetizers:

Grilled Lemongrass Shrimp with Sweet Chili Dipping Sauce

Lobster, Mango and Jicama Summer Rolls

Roasted Garlic and Red Pepper Hummus

Spicy Satay Dip


Main Courses:

Grilled Chicken Ciabatta Sandwiches with Roasted Red Pepper Duo

Lobster Arepas

Madeira Beef Filet

Tipsy Pork Chops with Bourbon-Laced Peach Chutney


Desserts:

Basil & Orange Ice Cream with Cinnamon Tuiles

Chilly Drunken Orange "Creamsicle"

Mocha Pudding with Espresso Creme

Vanilla Citrus Creme Sauce


Remember that you can always look for recipes by category at the Gilded Fork, or search for specific ingredients with our sidebar search box. And don't forget the tasty beverages!



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