A Sage Obsession
Autumn is here, and as the cool weather welcomes winter, gone are the plump berries and tomatoes of summer. For some, the first sign of fall are the bushels or crisp apples and tender pears that begin to crowd the markets. But me, I look forward to the new crop of herbs and spices that infuse the brisk air with seductive scents and intoxicating aromas.
Some would say that my enthusiasm is misplaced, since after all, summer yields an abundance of refreshing herbs and flavors. But, as far as I’m concerned, nothing beats the rich, comforting and familiar flavors of the season -- a spice-laden gingerbread, silky pumpkin soup topped with a creamy quenelle of sage cream, or my aunt’s Thanksgiving stuffing full of apples, sausage and sage....mmmmm. I guess you can say it’s my sage obsession, and, as our appetites begin to crave comforting flavors, now is the time to take advantage of autumn’s warm flavors (as well as this month’s featured indulgence)…SAGE.
Although my own range of professional pastry experience is pretty narrow, limited to the restaurant and a few short classes, I have always had an affinity for the plated desserts served at fine restaurants (perhaps that is why I was lured in and feel so natural working there). Most captivated by the artistic and creative quality of plated desserts, we decided to experiment by creating (what I am naming) a Gilded Plate this month for the Caramelized Napoleon idea. The plate is a chef’s canvas, a medium for creating new forms for expression and striking balance between purity and imagination. Typically, plated desserts consist of the main item, a harmonious accompanying item or two, and complementary sauces and garnishes, but it can be as complex or as simple as the pastry chef desires – there is really no limit to their creativity and artistic expression. Careful attention is given to each and every detail, balance and contrast in texture, temperature and flavor, as well as each individual garnish, so the dessert as a whole is visually stunning and, most importantly, has extraordinary taste.
Attempting to create a dessert of multiple pieces at home can be quite daunting (as we discovered in crafting the napoleon), and while we may have been a bit ambitious with this recipe, at least it inspires any who attempts to recreate the dessert to better perfect their skills. Consider it a mini pastry curriculum, as each component can usually stand alone as a dessert course, or try it as a whole, remembering to keep in mind that the final plate is only one interpretation. Quite the novice, I still have tremendous room for improvement in both the technical aspects and presentation of pastry and desserts. But, that's what practice and experimentation are for! And, whether I fail or succeed, I've come to think of these experiments as a learning process to help further my development (as well as improving photography skills). So, feel free to play, experiment and try new techniques making this (or any other plated) dessert either as a whole or in parts.
(I’ve always found books and photos to be a great inspiration, and if you’re interested in reading more about how to create plated desserts, I highly recommend the Grand Finales series by Tish Boyle and Timothy Moriarty, Sweet Seasons by Richard Leach, New Classic Desserts by Andrew MacLauchlan, and Charlie Trotter’s Desserts.)
More to come on techniques used:
Caramel
Pastry Cream
Pate a bombe
gilded fork, dessert, recipe, pastry, princess, Monica Glass, chef


