Sunday, January 28, 2007

Pass the Port, Please!

An overcast sky and ripping wind made for a desolate evening at home (ever the rare occurrence in this robust city). And with an endless pile of mess engulfing almost every empty space in my room, I was destined for dreadful evening. Over the year, I’ve slowly discovered ways in which to make myself more productive or, if not productive, then certainly make the passing time more pleasurable, and a spicy port just happens to be one such vice. Aching for the perfect remedy to console myself on such a wintry evening, I cracked open a bottle of port; Nieport Ruby Porto to be exact. With admirable density and flavorful oomph full of spicy nuts, dark fruits and creamy caramel notes, it felt effortlessly smooth caressing my lips. Nothing makes a body cozier during winter than a glass of port (sorry, but even I must give hot chocolate a back seat to port). I swooned, I sipped, I got sticky, I drank. Such a sweet cap to a blistering day.

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To see the rest on Port, travel over to our Test Kitchen Notes and check out some of the Port-inspired recipes we made this month....

"I cook with wine, sometimes I even add it to the food!!"



Pear Panna Cotta and Port Wine Gelee
What better way to have your drink than to eat it for dessert? And with a wiggle this seductive, how can you resist this pear panna cotta. Cool and creamy, soft and silky, the pear panna cotta is wonderfully delicate, and the covering of port gelee is the perfect flavor accent, intensitfying the refreshing dessert. The beauty of panna cotta lies in its ease of preparation and the pure, simple flavor of cream, so as there are such few ingredients, it is important to only use the best and purest.


Panna cotta is a traditional Piemontese recipe literally meaning "cooked cream" in Italian. Many variations of the recipeexist, but it is generally made by simmering some cream, milk and sugar, mixing with gelatin, and letting cool until set to its characteristic sexy wobbliness. One of the easiest and most elegant of desserts, it is sometimes the simplest things that are the most rewarding, and the beauty of panna cotta lies in its ease of preparation and the pure, simple flavor of cream. The cream mixture can also be flavored, often with a vanilla bean, but sometimes with fruit (I used fresh pear puree in my recipe), but you could also experiment with tea, chocolate and different spices or extracts for an exotic twist.

This panna cotta is a pear and vanilla based recipe covered with a layer of Ruby Port gelée. I used Ruby Port 1. for the brilliant crimson color, 2. its intense flavor is the perfect balance for the creamy sweetness of the pear and 3. I just adore a good Ruby Port. Smooth, satisfying and sweet, Port and pears are a classic combination that works beautifully in this refreshing recipe. For garnish, I also made a delicious Port sauce by reducing 1 cup of Ruby Port with a teaspoon of sugar by half.

Tips for making panna cotta:
1. As there are usually only a few ingredients in a panna cotta, make sure to purchase good quality ingredients

2. The exact amount of gelatin is crucial! Too much will give you the consistency of a rubbery jello, but with too little, you will have a limp liquid. A typical ratio is about 2 teaspoons gelatin to 3 cups of liquid, but it can vary slightly depending on the mold you use. This should result in a soft, silky cream consistency that is slightly set, yet almost too delicate to handle. I used Knox unflavored gelatin powder, but you can easily substitute sheet gelatin.

The general rule is:
4 gelatin sheets = 1 envelope

3. To easily unmould and release the panna cotta, dip the mold in warm water for a few seconds. Make sure the water is not too hot or the panna cotta may melt. Carefully loosen the edges with your fingers or a flat knife or spatula so you can wiggle it out.

4. Make the recipe one day in advance, as you need to allow time for the gelatin to set.

5. Keep the finished panna cottas in the refrigerator until serving, because they can melt if left out at room temperature for too long.

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Chocolate Caramel Port Tart
An adaptation of Dorie Greenspan’s Chocolate-Crunched Caramel Tart from her newest book Baking: From My Home to Yours, the luscious combination of chocolate, caramel and port offer a burst of flavors that delicately melt on your tongue. A silky port ganache conceals a layer of creamy, yet crunchy walnut caramel for a delightful contrast. Rather than use the Dorie’s dough, we opted for a chocolate crust to magnify the chocolate intensity. The tart can be prepared as one large tart, but we prefer the adorable charm of individual tarts. We also recommend serving at room temperature for the most luxurious sensation, and within a day or two of being made.



I first made these tarts for a tasting of Anheuser-Busch's newest, seasonal artisinal beers held at the PR firm where I work part-time, and then later for my family's Christmas celebration. After all the swooning my tarts evoked at the tasting, I knew that the addition of this month's Indulgence Port could take my recipe to an even higher level. The creamy walnut caramel and silky Port ganache encased in a sweet chocolate (sucre) shell are an ethereal combination, and I could not resist devouring several of these little gems...a pure, worthwhile indulgence. I'm sure that this tart will fast become my go-to recipe for a simple, yet elegant dessert for any occasion.



See more of the Pastry Princess' dessert recipes!

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