SHF #35: L'Amour des Figues

I have been wanting to make something with figs before they disappeared, so I was estatic when Ivonne from Cream Puffs in Venice announced this month’s theme for Sugar High Friday: The Beautiful Fig. A monthly event created by Jennifer of The Domestic Goddess over two years ago, Sugar High Friday is an event to celebrate all that is sweet in our lives.

“Every fruit has its secret.The fig is a very secretive fruit. As you see it standing growing, you feel at once it is symbolic:And it seems male. But when you come to know it better, you agree with the Romans, it is female.” D.H. Lawrence, Figs.

I typically like my figs minimally embellished. The beauty of a fig. The curves, the color and the sensual plumpness. Such a coy little fruit, their modest fat bottomed exteriors hide such luscious ruby insides. A perfectly ripe fig begs to be bitten into. Eating one fresh is such a simple pleasure, but it’s a rather indulgent treat with such intensity in each bite. It’s delicately plump, squishy soft, juicy and sweetly sticky. Not much time for more on my amore for figs, but I’ll steer you to a past post...

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Last week, I made an absolutely lucious fig jam. I have no recipe, as I usually estimate my jams, but here is a quick idea to what I did:

1. Desteam and chop a bunch of fresh figs. Puree, weigh and set aside.

2. Place an equal weight of sugar in a tall saucepan. Wet with a little water to make a sandy texture. Add 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped, and 1 star anise. Place over medium heat and cook the sugar, occasionally swirling the pan, until the hardball stage, just before caramelizing. (You can take it to a light caramel if you want a subtle caramel flavor in your jam).

3. Quickly add the pureed figs and stir continuously until thick and to a jam consistency (I think this took about 7-10 minutes). Pour into containers. The jam will keep refrigerated for 3-4 weeks and frozen for up to 3 months.

Swirled in Greek yogurt, what a breakfast this makes!

For my SHF entry, I made a Goat Cheese & Fig Clafoutis swirled with my fig jam and then topped with Caramelized Black Pepper and Honey Figs. This is a not too sweet, deliciously light and fluffy cross between a custard, cheesecake and pancake. Having never really had a clafoutis before, I was intrigued after seeing this recipe. Clafoutis is the epitome of a French comfort dessert: unpretentious, easy to make and blissfully soothing. The fluffy custard is as light as a cloud and typically bursting with fruit. However, this one, not terribly traditional, is creamy with tangy goat cheese, swirled with luscious fig jam, and topped with spicy caramelized figs. I baked mine in mini cast-iron skillets, but if you don’t have any, 1 large pan or any ovenproof variety is fine.

A simple, yet fun recipe, this is perfect for a quick treat or an elegant finish to a delicious meal.

Fig and Goat Cheese Clafoutis
Serves: 6

5 oz (150g) mild goat cheese, at room temperature

1/2 cup (110g) sugar

4 large eggs

3 tablespoons honey

3/4 cup heavy cream

1 vanilla bean, seeds only (bean reserved for the figs)
1 teaspoon lemon zest

1/2 cup (70g) flour

½ cup of fig jam (place in a squeeze bottle for easier swirling)

Preheat the oven to 350F/175C. Put the goat cheese and sugar in a medium bowl and whisk until smooth. Add the eggs, one at a time, and then whisk in the honey, heavy cream, and seeds from the vanilla bean. Whisk in the flour just until no lumps remain. At this point the batter can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours (and indeed, some people say it improves with age).

Pour the batter into a greased or buttered skillet and bake in the preheated oven until the top is golden brown, about 15 minutes for minis or 30-40 minutes for a larger baking dish. Allow to cool slightly and serve with caramelized figs.

Caramelized Figs

1/2 cup honey
Vanilla bean from the clafoutis recipe

Pinch of salt

1 pint fresh figs (preferably black Mission), cut lengthwise in half or into quarters for minis

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Freshly cracked black pepper

Place the honey, vanilla bean and salt in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Cook until honey begins to bubbly and then place figs in the mixture, cut side down, and cook until figs begin to release juice, about 3 minutes. Add butter and the black pepper, swirling the skillet to melt the butter. Remove skillet from heat. Using slotted spoon, arrange the figs cut side up on top of the clafoutis. Generously drizzle the remaining syrup over the figs and clafoutis. ENJOY!!

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