Sunday, September 24, 2006

Cocktails and Drinking in Singapore

Cuisine-wise, Singapore has one of the best quality and variety in the world, often ranking among the top three in major international competitions. This is especially true in restaurant-fare, though when it comes to hawker-fare, it’s a whole different picture. Though the quality of the latter is there, the number of operators of such quality are relatively few. One had to know, either through the countless culinary guides/programs or word of mouth, where to go for any particular dish.

When one compares the bar culture, the picture can be quite wanting. For most people, most of the time when one goes to a bar, even if it’s a regular establishment of choice, the common thought is, “What should I drink this time?” Often, for lack of a better choice, the selection are the “safer” ones, such as beer, the house-pouring wines, bourbon coke, vodka lime, etc.

As for cocktails, the more common choice would usually be the martinis (especially lychee and apple martini’s and cosmopolitans), and the fruit margaritas. On the other end of the spectrum, the choice of cocktails are based on their abilities to deliver the alcoholic ‘high’, such as the “heavy duty” concoctions Flaming Lamborghini, Long Island Iced Tea, etc.

As the general quality is relatively mediocre on both ends of the spectrum for these choices of cocktails, taste can often be quite bad. There are several factors that have contributed to this. For one thing, the craft of bartending and mixology is very basic (or even rare for the latter), with no quality standards or professional certification required in the industry. And most of the barmen are more interested in the flairing part of the profession, to become the popular and cool barman.

However, one would easily discover when conversing with them that most of them are quite bad in their basic bar knowledge (eg, proper techniques, and even understanding of the common spirits). This is exasperated by the fact that this profession is viewed often as a holiday job, or when one has not much career options. This results in little respect, both for the profession, by the barmen themselves, and by the establishment owners who offer little or often no proper training program and expect little quality in this area.

Another unfortunate development in the bar industry here have been that most bar operators focus mainly on cost-cutting measures in the bar to stay competitive. Perhaps for lack of the right bar expertise, this undifferentiated direction is the dominant path taken, resulting in similar, and boring, promotions and under-cutting strategies.

The dire consequence of this is that the quality of the drinks offered by bars are further diminished. It is the simple principle so apparent and recognized in food, especially the simplest dishes, where the quality of the ingredients are of the utmost importance. But, this does not seem so apparent in the bar industry here.

The bar culture is growing as a reflection of a more affluent lifestyle, especially when one considers the significant costs of alcohol in Singapore. Though, beer and wine dominate alcoholic consumption here, consumers are often looking for good cocktails, perhaps as a better lifestyle choice that represents their individuality.

Hopefully, in time, the industry (in both Singapore and most of Asia) would evolve, such as learning from the past wisdoms of fresh juice cocktail bars, and from the current environment of culinary quality, or even the ‘future’ such as molecular gastronomy & mixology. Provocachic would even suggest explorations into specific cultivars for the choice of produce for every recipe.

Sunday, September 17, 2006

Inspiration for Garden Temptations

One of the most interesting aspects about this theme was that figs were mentioned in the Garden of Eden – and some say they might even be the “forbidden fruit”!

From the garden, the ideas of English tea and secret affairs bloomed. The Garden of Eden also alludes to the very beginning of temptations, and a time of innocence. The rabbit comes to mind, thus the choice of greens.

Earl Grey tea was chosen for its bergamot citrus element, and for its familiarity in the Western world. The tannin from the tea also offers a “tight” dimension to an otherwise gentle culinary experience.

An uncommon culinary ingredient in Asia, elderberry presented an alluring lead, while a harmonious cast quietly supports it. Together with Earl Grey tea and carrot, the floral, citrus and green elements were woven into the “garden flavor.”

The orangey-brown hue is evocative of fruits – delicious; while the brown echoes of nature. Thus, we arrive at the Garden Temptations cocktail, the tempting companion to the “forbidden fruit,” figs.

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Sunday, September 10, 2006

Mixology - Beverage Recipe Guides

SWEET-SOUR-STRONG
In the world of cocktail mixology, the basic guidelines for a good recipe are a balance of three (3) elements - "Sweet", "Sour" and "Strong". "Strong" refers to the alcoholic strength and taste, while sweetness could also be derived from liqueurs in addition to the usual suspects.

The American ratio is approximately 1 (Sweet): 0.75 (Sour): 2 (Strong); while the difference in Singapore is basically a ratio of 1.5 (Strong) instead of 2. Of course, these are only rough guidelines, and we must remember that taste is highly personal.

XE-XIANG-WEI
However, Provocachic™ also looks into the wisdom from other areas, such as Chinese cuisine. A popular guide on the important areas of cuisines, "xe, xiang, wei", translates roughly into "aesthetics, aroma, and taste".

UMAMI
The more common knowledge of flavours is that it is mainly made up of "sweet, sour, salty, and bitter". However, we should also recognise another flavour called "umami". This flavour adds to a certain "fuller, meatier" mouth feel, and is derived mainly from the glutamate in high-protein foods. Notice that the flavour is used instead of taste, as the former takes into considerations the fuller spectrum of gastronomic perceptions influenced by aromas. See umami in "Pan-Asian Cosmo" recipe design.

MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY
Actually, molecular gastronomy research have found that the main flavours are not really "assigned" to specific regions on the tongue as popularly believed, but are in fact perceived independent of regions. And there are apparently a few types of "bitter" flavours, and other that do not fall under any specific categories.

Researches have also yielded certain categories of foods that contribute to the gastronomic experience being "comfortable". These "comfort" categories include "fat, salt, sweet, vanilla, cinnamon".

TAOIST FIVE ELEMENTS
An unusual area to look into is the Taoist Five Elements and this philosophical/metaphysical system's representations in foods. Four of the elements are represented by the expected "sweet, sour, salty and bitter". The fifth element, however, is described as "pungent". Some items that fall into this grouping include herbs and spices. See umami in "Pan-Asian Cosmo" recipe design.

PROVOCACHIC(sm): The Art
The above, and some other sources of wisdoms, helps us arrive at a gastronomic direction. Provocachic(sm) also studies food and scent psychology. And apart from the cultural settings and ambience in which the cocktail is presented, very important is to recognise the unique culinary preferences of that individual, and a certain story of their lives & personalities.

Another area of considerations is the wisdoms of colour psychology. In addition, ingredients that are disliked, but where there is no allergy towards, are also used as a surprise in the recipes. It helps to throw people off guard, and also sensitize their perceptions, which can be quite numbed by the "noise" of modern society.

The core - Flavor Branding - is the concept of connecting emotionally through the flavors, stories and concepts, which works when recipes are created for either individuals, brands or companies.

Of course, after all the "science" through the thorough research done, and from the various wisdoms, the "art" comes in. Here, one aims to forget all that has being learnt, and based on instincts, "feel" a concept/recipe. This is the “Art” of Provocachic(sm).

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